!!!Lost City of the Inkas....!!!!!

0n the 24th of July...it will be 100 years since Hiram Bingham "discovered" the most fabulous Lost city of the Inkas....

One of the the reasons why it is still intact

untouched except for the straw roofs

is that the Spanish conquistadores never did find it...they destroyed all that was "native" in order to colonize,evangelize and utilize...to suppress, rule and exploit this land that had so much to offer in terms of resources....

MachuPicchu is the smaller mountain in the photo, and the bigger mountain Waynapicchu, is like big brother protecting in the background

Those fit of knees can do an extra 2 hour climb up this larger mountain...

The city is built on the foot to these mountains thus taking the name of the mountain closest... which means in the local Quechua language, "old Mountain".
Machupicchu is in part of the Amazon jungle and lies of the Inka sacred valley, it's high up in the mountains, always covered in mist and clouds adding to the mystic....

one minute you see the ruins, you blink and they are not there

It's 6km up from Aguas Calientes...hot water spa...

I did not bathe...

but the 2 gals did and enjoyed it even though the outside temperatures were freezing
mean while,I sipped a beer in the top bar...and kept the faith about my knee which was killing me...
I kept praying that I would be able to walk the next day..





Thank God I had Angela and Melissa to look after me as I dragged my self around...
"Thanks Angela and Melissa..."

we did it together...








most tourists, us included get bused there...we were at the bus stop by 5.00am...and behind a huge queue...

everyone wants to get there early to catch the sunsrise on a lovey day and also to get a chance to climb up Waynapicchu..there is a control that allows only 400 a day ...
We were not lucky on the day for very clear weather...despite the rain..we enjoyed great views and a magical time

the ambiance around the city is magical, mystical...

Cusco as a city is what it is because of Machupicchu...it is the gateway...all and I mean all tourists come to Peru to see this fabulous INKA city...a lot of Peruvians are always here too as this is a symbol of their country..greatness of their past, untouched...I suppose it is a symbol of what a great nation they were before destruction and forced change...
They probably wonder what their country might have been had this greatness carried on...

For me, I was so awed to witness what this ancient civilization achieved, beauty, fineness, precision...

total harmony with nature

godliness..

Another reason this city stayed undiscovered for so long could be that the only way there until discovery, was on foot...of course locals knew it was there...but did not understand it's significance

Currently access is only by plane or rail...there is no road...the mountains that surround this city are massive and near impossible...or perhaps this is just a way of the government ensuring control and access to the City...
Which ever way the whole visit is well organized in terms of ticket sales, train service and bussing to the top...

The trip begins from Cusco...that's why Cusco is the tourist capital of Peru...then a bus ride to Ollantaytambo, then a train ride Aguas Calientes.... We took this option
Or a chopper ride
or a train ride all the way from Cusco...

Once I had seen on seen Machupicchu, I felt

!!!!!!!!!

from MANU.....to...... PICCHU

YES...
the "mean Dutch"

were well worth their salt,
they came bearing gifts of wine...rum, cigarettes, music and most of all great
company....I soon forgot about moving to the lodge up the river,
I realized it's people that count and not creature comforts...apart from the ones I just mentioned!


Well AFTER 3 DAYS of cooking over a wood fire i could no longer stand the smell of me...it was

time for a wash

It felt so good wonder why I had held onto my dirt for so long......
That day was spent briefly at the top "camp site"...on the way there Oliver showed us evidence(paw prints and snake trails) of animals roaming close to our camp site... I guess they avoid humans for their own safety

later we were busy preparing dinner for a now larger group....

We enjoyed the evening...interspersed with some rain....and sipped wine then rum late into the night as we listened to Bob Marley tunes....

It was truly memorable...and then we all agreed that that we had enjoyed the experience...the Dutch were sad that we were leaving the following morning and panicked as to how they would cope...they thought we were just so organized....LOL...but we knew they would cope and have fun just as we had.....

The morning of our departure...we left early 6.00am

to watch some special event where certain birds come to particular part of the river bank to eat necessary minerals....

We got to the spot and found many other enthusiasts waiting patiently.... in silence and hope...

At first I wondered what we were actually doing..then I realized we were waiting for the mist to clear so we could see the birds....

The limit time to be at the spot is 7.15am....we waited in vain....but the early boat ride was lovely and well worth it.

Soon after we packed up and headed for Attalaya port, our first contact with "life as we know it"

You can guess what our first stop was.....no, not the bar...but the bathroom...this time we did not try to negotiate the extortionist price...

Next,we got to Pilcopata

a back of beyond town....

(it has internet and all comforts that non jungle people "need")

I wondered if I would ever return this far in the bowels of the Earth...and where the children stared called me "moreno"...colored one..but I really felt this was a once in a life time experience...glad and grateful that I was able to do it

We had to wait for 5 hours for our treacherous ride back at 5.30pm...this time in the dark....

I figured it was better to wait around for 5 hours than walk for 7....then I prayed for journey mercies...

God is great, we had survived the jungle...we got back to Cusco at 5.00am and 4 hours later from MANU Jungle we were off to the awesome Machu PICCHU

a bit like Hotel Carlifonia

Well.... we survived the first night...knees and feet still all painful despite sharing a hot basin filled with 'magic' herbs that oliver threw in and some salt, with Angela, and later a massage from Arnoldo, 'the Jungle man' native guide....

The first challenge was to go about basics like going to al bano....under no instructions...we figured out that a spade was very useful....as for privacy...well as far away as you felt comfortable...

That out of the way...a lovely breakfast awaited...

For some reason us 3 gals were not included in that tour that left that morning with the 2 guides and Rainer and Lily.... we were not pleased..

Oliver was still passed out by then 9.00 am, after last night's bing....now I gort really worried...a "manic" leader plus blacked out when he should be looking after us...

So we had tofind time to occupy ourselves and plan our escape...


this was the highlight of the morning

I brought back a stone to remind me of the place....far, far away....

At one point we thought it would be great to collect and sell the pebbles...they are better than the ones from IKEA....

Lunch was another delight...then were were to go for a little walk with Oliver to the actual campsite up in the jungle...that was something to look forward to...

but...shock and horror as we watched our chef pack his items and leave with Rainier and Lilly..to continue up the river for another 8 days......our only source of comfort was going...

The camp was reduced to 5 from 10...suddenly it looked empty and I spooked out and moved my tent closer to Oliver....I was ready to listen to his sleep talking than risk....I don't know what...we were warned that dangerous snakes roamed the beach, that jaguars had been spotted and that a large animal,Tapir...

also liked to visit...
Never mind the spiders and other jungle creatures that come out at night...

On the way to the site,

we saw the leaf cutter ants, which are just brilliant to watch...please read /see more about them and you will be amazed

The site had a great view, atop a cliff overlooking the other side of the river...
to say it was basic is an understatement...


...

suddenly our campsite felt

so cheery and cosy....

with our coca leaves to keep us going...all the booze was gone

I greatly appreciated the fact that "all things are relative"

We were very happy to return and fry the Yuka that Angela pulled out of the "farm"it kept us busy that night as we fried, roasted and boiled it...that was our dinner.....

We thought standard had hit rock bottom....


After us gals spooked ourselves out...the 2 men had long retired...Oliver at 6.00pm..to recover and Eduardo fizzled off somewhere....imagining the fire flies were jaguar eyes..we went to sleep happy in the knowledge that a group of Dutch were arriving the next day

Happy perhaps because they would take over our suffering or that if they were worth their salt, they would bring fresh supplies of booze and cigarettes

......YOU TRUELY CANNOT LEAVE UNTIL THE MASTER SAYS SO.....

(Excuse me...if many incoherent sentences/thoughts/logic...am rushing to meet the Dutch at Plaza de Armas for a drink....they survived and got back ok.....)

To our spot in the Jungle

Well now that the shock of walking 15-20Kms in 7 hours in the jungle and partly in the dark had worn off...it was a bright and breezy start

\
I felt ready to conquer the jungle with Oliver, the great expert leading us...into the Manu reserve

After a fantastic breakfast...I learnt to make a proper spanish Omelette finally....

there was a suggestion that we walk to Attalya...the port where we would catch the boat to our final destination....with the 7 hour walk still raw in my feet...I was hesitant...

I was however assured that there would be a vehicle available should I require one...so we happily set off in the knowledge that this would be only a 2 hour walk...

Along the way, we saw mainly birds and flora of this part of the Amazon and heard monkey...after about hour I wondered weather the "2 hour walk" refered to a focused "must get there" pace or the leisurely walk that tourists engage in...I decided to take no chances..when the vehicle came....I jumped at the opportunity

I should have expected nothing less from our jungle expert by now...I was so glad...to be lifted...from time to time the 3 guys...Jose, Eduardo and Oliver got off to push or lighten the load on the motor taxi....I was treated like royalty and allowed to stay up all the time...or perhaps it was the thought of them having to literally haul me up that preferred me up...I thought of Arnie and his cranes...LOL

I did get off once though to admire the Madre de Dios River,

along which we would camp...this river is swift with strong currents and the water is so clean and cool...It eventually pours into the Amazon River onwards to Brazil




I got to the port, refreshed myself and made my way to the boat to chill out and enjoy the scenery...and there was a nice glass of wine too...

I sat back and watched Jose prepare Lomo Saltado, fruit salad of kiwi and melon...and a delicious soup...on the boat,which we later enjoyed

On my second glass of wine and 2 hours later...I thought about my group... where group were they???? especially after I had seen the distance we covered on wheels and where we had left them....

An hour later, they arrived...having been lifted close to the port....they had walked for over 4 hours, they were happy though and just in time for the lunch!!!

Later in the afternoon,we navigated up the river to watch birds and walk through more jungle

Rafting was our last activity for the day...we saw loads of squirrel monkeys flying from tree to tree and many birds....don't recall the names

We got back to find camp had ben set on the beach, instead of up in the jungle....It was a shock...no facilities...but plenty of water .....in the river.... We had reached Otorongo blanco camp,all natural

"white Puma" As seen in Oliver's tattoo....the blank eye is from a wound...after the tattoo...how spooky....!!!







My tent was the smallest and could only crawl in...it was to be my shelter for 3 days..

By evening I was planning my return the next day....to life as I know it....









any and all the alcohol was consumed freely that evening....


in fact so freely


that we thought we lost Oliver the next day...

......One thing that never failed us, the food was always fantastic... it was our life line

La Selva.......getting to The Jungle

It is a long and treacherous journey....and dangerous










We were to leave Cusco at 5am on a regular bus...but left an hour later...after the bus broke down 15mins later.... after the defective part was fixed, we left at about 6.30am

No one complained....later on I understood why....


The road has been carved through massive rocks, and winds and winds....until we

We got to our first stop Paucartambo about 9.00am.... for breakfast etc...
The ladies were ready with their fried meats....and dogs were going about their daily business

Then we continued to climb to about 5000asl....snow tops clearly visible...I could not believe how much higher we could go; and it was better not to look out of the window...there are no rail guards against the sharp steep drops...and the bus was charging along faster than I would have preferred.

We eventually came into the "Cloud Forest";From above the forest is hardly visible....covered in clouds...here it is seen from below

If you didn't know, you might think that there was nothing beneath the clouds...

then we started to descend.....and descend and until the only thing I could do was to pray to God for the famous "journey mercies".....the roads are single track..literally hugging the side of the mountain; one bad move, ......you plunge more that 1000m into ravines/canyons on the side....

inside the jungle, at times too it was misty.....

and beautiful

at about 12.30 we were dropped off to walk and see around us...one thing that I must say is that traveling on tours I have met many wonderful people...on this trip I was with two gals I had linked up with for the City tour...and who would be my travel pals for 11 days....they were my family...Angala(peruvian) and Melisssa(American);there was another couple Rainier(German) and Lilly(Peruvian), 2 guides,a man and lady both natives of the jungle, a cook, a cook's aide and Oliver (Italian) owner of the tour company,

Us 5 tourists and the 2 guides were dropped off to walk...we thought it was great strolling in the jungle...looking for mostly birds and at the flora and hoping to catch a glimpse of some scary animal...or anaconda..or tarantullas...or what ever each one of us imagined of a jungle.

After lunch we carried on....then it occurred to me to ask how far were were going....

............Yes believe it or not...the guide said 35KMS............... I thought his English was bad and my Spanish too....so I asked again....

suddenly the beauty faded....

this was now 2.00pm.....
The idea was to see nature and then stop a vehicle for a lift the rest of the way....if need be

All the vehicles...the few that passed by....refused to lift us

Our prospects were truly grim as we trugged on...I worked it out that we would arrive at 11pm..given that my feet and knee are not in the best condition...Angela started to develop blisters....

4pm...then 5.30pm it got dark and raining...torches and rain ponchos out and now we focused on just walking, all the anger gone...just had to survive...

The good news was that we could get to the next town at about 7.30 and from there, there was hope of a ride to out overnight stop....yes indeed GOOD NEWS

We got to Padria at 7.30pm....shoes wet...feet dead...I observed the bunch of dirty, a bit crazed lookin tourists...little did I know the same fate awaited me...after the Jungle!!!!

I ordered a large beer....which I offered to the family in celebration for having made it...this was our first serious bonding experience...

I was sure that without a lift, I would sleep on the shop floor...no way was I making another step...Before long Oliver...

arrived in to pick us up....in 2 taxis....wow.. what a luxury...I would have sat in the boot, on top of the car....clang on anywhere happily.

Why we had been made to walk that long was lost on us 3 gals.....But the mental and physical challenge of the jungle had started...

A nice dinner prepared by Hose Carlos awaited us at the lodge in Pilcopata...and we soon forgot the trek...

The next day...nobody complained that there was no hot water or that the rooms were dirty...well Lily did bit

No one had complained of the bus being late or broken before the trip....one is just so grateful when you arrive to your destination after such a treacherous trip...at one point we drove through tunnels carved in the rocks....as we made our way further and further into the bowels of the Earth.....

The Tours around QUSCO.....Pictorial

After the hype of the Sun Festival... i thought things would slow down....but it has been go, go, go for the last 2 weeks....

The City Tour and that of the Sacred Valley were different this time as I was in a group with a guide to explain some of the things I had already seen...

I just happened to catch this wedding...Not part of tour....I thought the bride looked rather

stressed, with random people filming her, them dancing in the street to a small band...




The tour was over the weekend and started at the Qoricancha

As you may recall, from previous blogs...this is the same place as the Iglesia San Domingo, or the Inka Sun Temple...that over looks the city...

There are many beautiful paintings housed here, and a museum apart from the church...some Inka History is retold here through their astronomical calender

The ruins of Saqsaywamn were next...This is also the culmination point for the Inti Raymi

At this point my camera died....every traveller's night mare!!!!

Next were Qenko ruins...these contain a labyrinth and are also part of the Famous inka trail/highway
Further up the road were Tambomachayi...with a most stunning view at sunset and Inka waterways

and Pukapukara....It was too dark to see why we were here so we quickly went off to a craft shop to be taught how to differentiate the real Alpaca from the fake....
Only thing I learn't is the real one is EXPENSIVE....can only be quoted in dollars...

SUNDAYAnd the Sacred Valley

Pisaq ruins are some of the better preserved in terms of wall

height and very scenic

also interesting here are the burial tombs..observe the holes in the wall..that is where the Inka nobility were enterred in the feotal/(unborn baby) position....can't spell the word....

Next ruins were at Ollantaytambo, named after a famous Inka leader who was in love with an ordinary non royal gal...observe on the photo...the prison where the gal was kept to break the love....

Eventually the love thrived

THE MARKETS
From each stop there are various markets offering crafts, fabrics, souvenirs, explaining trades

Dyes made from natural plants and herbs

Weavers in chincerro..the ladies here wear their air in braids, similar to what I have...was tempted to get my hair redone....but thought they would collapse from the mess that it is...

From these dyes, we get the lovely fabrics, mostly made from sheep's wool. sometimes alpaca or llama

The sculptures of the inka

quite interesting too.....LOL